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Constitution
Hill, sitting at the northern end of the
promenade, is a 150 m high lump of crumbling mudstone
held together by a thin layer of grass, gorse and guano.
The
zigzag paths leading to the top are worth taking for the
views when you get there. Alternatively there's the 192
m long Electric Cliff Railway, dating from 1896
(originally water-powered but converted to electricity
in 1921).
The
panorama at the top takes in virtually the entire sweep
of Cardigan bay, from the islands off Cardigan and the
Preseli Hills of Pembrokeshire to the south right round
to the tip of the Lleyn peninsula which points at
Ireland which is just over the horizon to the west.
The view
can be experienced in a different way inside the Camera
Obscura, a 1985 reconstruction of a Victorian amusement,
said to be one of the largest of its kind in the world
and to look out over a combined land- and sea-scape of
more than 2500 km2.
Northward from the Hill runs the cliff path to Clarach
and thence to Borth. The wildlife visible from
Constitution Hill and along the path includes seals,
greater black-backed gulls, cormorants, oystercatchers,
raptors and corvids. It's said that leatherback
turtles visit to feed on the abundant jellyfish in the
Bay, but virtually no-one's actually seen them.
Beyond Clarach
an extraordinary feature is visible as a reef extending
several km into the bay from the secluded beach at
Wallog - Sarn
Gynfelyn.

The
scientific explanation for the sarnau, which are found
at several points along the Cardigan Bay coast, is that
they are long subtidal banks of glacial moraines.
The more
romantic version of their story is that they are the
remains of causeways leading to
Cantre'r Gwaelod,
Wales's version of the myth common to many coastal
nations across the world of an ancient drowned
civilisation.
Further
north are some of the scenic glories of these parts -
the estuaries of the Rivers Dyfi and Mawddach. If these
landscapes occurred anywhere else, say a country with an
aggressively promoted worldwide brand like Ireland,
they'd be marketed without mercy by the tourist people.
Wales
has never got the hang of this kind of image-peddling
and so generally the country's extraordinary scenery
remains pretty much a secret. I suppose those of us who
live here must want it that way, since it preserves the
qualities we like and keeps out the riff-raff.
Within
the broad sweep of the Dyfi estuary are several
internationally important
habitats and a rich diversity
of flora and fauna. Of particular note are the Ynyslas
sand dunes, Cors Fochno (Borth Bog) and the RSPB reserve
at Ynys Hir.
The
birdlife of the estuary includes large seasonal
populations of migrant geese, ducks and swans, an
increasing population of little egrets, and rare raptors
such as the marsh harrier and osprey.
The Dyfi
Estuary is where south Wales ends and north Wales
begins, a boundary that is more than merely geographical
but also represents a change of culture, economy,
geology, history and dialect.
Which
adds to the richness of living in this beautiful,
elusive little country. |