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South
Beach extends from the harbour mouth to Castle Point.
This is where we get regular sightings of the Cardigan
Bay dolphins.
The
dolphins roam throughout the Bay but are seen most often
further south. Of course everyone regards the dolphin
as some kind of spiritually elevated, even saintly,
animal, but they have a dark side.
There is
evidence that the decline in the local population of
porpoises is linked to attacks by dolphins. You don’t
get to be top predator in your foodchain without being a
ruthless and efficient killer.
Dolphins
may have smiley faces and an engaging attitude to
humans, but we’re not so sure that a mackerel feels too
well-disposed towards them.
Off
Castle Point is Cormorant Rock which gets its name from
the fascinating bird that likes to congregate there.
It’s visible from our window and, through the
binoculars, we’ve seen up to thirty cormorants and shags
gathered to digest their catches and dry off their
feathers.
The
Castle dates from 1277 and is one of the ruins that
Cromwell knocked about a bit (in 1649). The
War Memorial,
designed by Italian sculptor
Mario Rutelli and built 1921-23,
is a striking construction in the Castle grounds
featuring the figure of Victory gesturing to the open
sea. Her dramatic unclad embonpoint has given “promise
of pneumatic bliss” to generations of the town’s
adolescents and less worldly-wise undergraduate
students.
In 1865
work commenced on a large Hotel alongside Aberystwyth
Castle, originally conceived as a way of getting rich
from the surge of visitors arriving by the new railway
line from Shrewsbury and the Midlands.
The
venture was cursed from the start and eventually the
unfinished building was purchased (for £10000) by the
Welsh National University Committee. In 1872, to great
rejoicing within the town and the principality, it was
opened as a University (the first in Wales) with 26
students. "Old College" is a striking neo-Gothic pile
that now houses University administration.
College
Rocks stretch from Castle Point to the Pier. Amongst
the notable birds that frequent this habitat are the
strangely named purple sandpipers – strange because
there isn’t a hint of purple anywhere in their plumage.
Spotting
the purple sandpiper is a mid-winter game. They are
easy to overlook, not just because of their sombre
camouflage but also because they don’t seem to do very
much except sit around all fluffed up and look sleepy.
By
contrast a much busier bird often accompanies them – the
turnstone. They live up to their name, turning stones
and darting about in pursuit of tasty titbits.
Strangely for a wader, the turnstone seems to dislike
getting its feet wet and dances away from incoming waves
as if its life depended on it.
This is
consistent with stories of turnstones
hitching rides on
ferries to avoid the possibility of wet feet. The
turnstone is very catholic in its food preferences.
There are even reports of it cheerfully munching on
human cadavers washed up on the beach.
Other
birds of this area are oystercatcher, ringed plover, the
usual gulls and corvids and, most spectacular of all,
starlings.
Poor
storm-lashed and truncated Aberystwyth Pier (the
earliest record of a pier in the same location dates
from 1801) is the winter roosting place for tens of thousands
of starlings (an estimate in 2005 put the number at
nearly 20000) which perform extraordinary displays of
synchronised aerobatics each evening prior to roosting.
Why do they do it? Perhaps it’s an adaptation to the
presence of predators (the occasional hawk has
been seen in the area), or some kind of social bonding
ritual. One curious feature is that, with the exception
of the noise made by their wings, the birds are
completely silent during their display, in contrast to
the merry squawking, fizzing and chattering they indulge
in when perching or feeding. |